New generation pastry chefs are splitting away from the oldies and forming themselves as a disparate cohort. Young pastry chefs set up their own professional body recently even as seasoned chefs professed to distance themselves from the new-found camaraderie. An exclusive report by Manoj John
Pastry chefs are a dispersed lot. Their presence is felt everywhere in the country—be it the neighbourhood bakery in suburban Bangalore or a high-street patisserie in midtown Mumbai’s Lokhandwala.
But they seldom know one another closely. The Indian Federation of Culinary Associations (IFCA) has been the somewhat unifying force for chefs across cuisines so far. The young generation are, however, a restless pack. A group of young pastry chefs met a few months ago to address the ways to foster talent. And the result was Pastry Council of India (PCI), a professional body of people engaged in the trade.
The organisation comprises chefs as well as educationists and was formed in Bangalore in December 2016. Vinesh Johny, founder of Lavonne Academy of Baking Science & Pastry Arts, was the key initiator of the organisation. Johny was featured on the “Forbes 30 Under 30 Asia” list of young innovators.
Several senior pastry chefs, however, distanced themselves from the new organisation. “I am not part of the Pastry Council of India. I don’t think I am going to be a part of it,” said Avijit Ghosh, corporate pastry chef at Leela Group of Hotels.
The Pastry Council is not deterred by the indifference of senior chefs. It is trying to forge alliances with international forums to act as the single official body to represent India at global pastry events.
It is not known how this move will pit the Pastry Council against the various chefs’ bodies under the aegis of the Indian Federation of Culinary Associations. The Indian Pastry Forum, the existing body comprising senior pastry chefs, is also not happy with the formation of another organisation for the community. “I was invited to be a member of the Indian Pastry Council. But I have chosen not to join it. The Indian pastry chefs’ community already has a professional organisation. We will continue to develop it,” said Abhiru Biswas, a known figure in the pastry community.
Vikas Bagul, president of PCI
Biswas represented Barry Callebeaut, world’s leading chocolate maker, in his chequered career. He recently launched Chef AB’s Kitchen which supplies desserts to leading five-star hotels. Vikas Bagul, president of PCI, told Bakery Biz that he would not divulge the plans of the organisation.
Vikas is also associated with the Indian Pastry Forum. He is the only person from the Pastry Forum to join the new organisation. Asked about the possible divergence in the pastry community in the wake of the formation of a new organisation, Bagul refused to comment.
Biswas said the new organisation is in the interest of certain individuals. “The Indian Pastry Forum is the representative body of the community. We are in the process of strengthening it. Almost all accomplished pastry chefs in the country are part of the Forum,” said Biswas. PCI, in the meantime, is going ahead with its plans. It has a mentor-mentee programme for imparting career counselling for young chefs. Senior professionals will mentor aspiring pastry chefs under this programme. The organisation will also seek to set standards for national and international pastry competitions.
