BakeryBiz, Jan-Feb, 2021
Built upon a rich chocolate dacquoise foundation, layers of raspberry marshmallow and rose-scented cream create a delicious balance of texture and flavour. A top layer of lychees and raspberries brings a sweet succulent freshness. Bright, fun and nostalgic. This is what present-day bakes and cakes are all about. The description that rightly reflects the changing world of bakery and patisserie. Bakery Biz spoke to some of the leading Chefs in Delhi NCR to understand the ongoing and upcoming trends relevant to the hotel’s bakery segment.
Change is the only constant and that has been true with the bakery sector. Dense cakes with colourful butter icing, the only cake variant, made way for light and airy sponge cakes thatcould absorb syrups and liqueurs. This was the norm till the consumers became more aware and started demanding something lighter than the classic Victoria and Genoese sponge cake.
Sponge, the most versatile base for a cake, is now gradually being replaced by the lighter dacquoise that pairs wonderfully when layered with fruits, jellies, gels, coffee, nuts, chocolate, and frothy creams. Unlike the sponge, dacquoise is flourless and gluten-free, which is a preferred choice for the ones with gluten intolerance. There exist other intolerances, viz., intolerance to lactose, eggs, nuts, artificial colours and flavours, and the evolving bakery industry has been keeping up with this evolution of tastes and preferences.
Organic bakeries resorted to natural colours and flavours by the addition of mangoes, strawberries, bananas, pineapple, coffee, chocolate, and even vanilla flavour from vanilla beans. Cakes with gluten-free flours like coconut flour and flour made with millets and other gluten-free grains made a foray into the world of baking. The consumers became aware of the ingredients, their properties and quality.
The red colour in red velvet cakes came from an insect called cochineal. Grey velvet cake contained added charcoal to give it a grey colour. The brown swirls in the marbled bread was due to the brown colour (often with coal tar as a base) added to the white bread dough. It was all about health and the right consumption of food. The consumers knew it all.
Current Trends
With the advent of social media, clicking, posting and sharing pictures of food became a norm. Everything had to be beautiful. Appeal to the eye first and then appeal to the palate; appeal the audience’s eye more than your own eye. Click even before you eat, and post it asap on social media became the way to go. Is it all about the visual appeal, or does it at the cost of taste and health?
CHE F SYED ALI Naqvi
Chef Ali Miya Naqvi, Executive Pastry Chef, Radisson Blu Hotel and Radisson Blu Towers Hotel Kaushambi Delhi/NCR, feels, “Nowadays eye appeal is a top priority for consumers choosing a crave-worthy bakery and patisserie. Adding nicely decorated, bright colours or black hues can take a baked good from average to fully Instagramable. It should be perfect for posting on social media and a great example of the ‘extraordinary’ bakery trend!”
One has to show to the world what they are buying and eating is beautiful, trendy and fashionable. “Apart from this, health segment products have been in high demand and account for a good sale, with the consumers becoming more aware of health and nutrition, due to being exposed to the world through travel and internet. Clean label is being noticed and preferred by the consumer,” he added.
Labels that talk about the composition, nutritional values, suitability to intolerances and allergies, fewer preservatives and chemicals are the most preferred. “Taste wows consumer at first sight,” says Chef Vivek Chauhan, Executive Pastry Chef, Le Meridien Delhi. “Traditional taste and exotic taste should be balanced. Consumers like to be surprised from time to time. Information on ingredients used, nutritional value, presence of preservatives and additives is a must now. Dietary requirements in patisserie to be glutenfree, lactose-free, vegan or sugar-free is a common feature.”
CHE F ANAND PANWAR
Chef Anand Panwar, Executive Pastry Chef from Roseate Hotels and Resorts, Delhi believes that, “currently everyone is concentrating on a very well finished product with authenticity and taste. The same can be seen in lots of standalone as well as five star hotels.”
Adds Chef Rishabh Anand, Executive Pastry Chef, The Leela Palace, New Delhi, “We work hard to deliver the finest to our guests with a focus to constantly work on innovation. The rising trend of adopting a healthy lifestyle and health-conscious food choices; gluten-free, vegan, etc. continues to gain momentum. As we know, people are looking for immunity-boosting factors in their meal, they are now keener to indulge in dishes which have natural nutritional value or are sourced from organic products.”
CHE F RISHABH ANAND
Bakes started getting more colourful with rainbow cupcakes, birthday cakes with colourful sprinkles, colour combinations, flavours and shapes, all thrown in, that had to tell a story and create an experience. Theme-based weddings and birthday parties, demanded bakes that could be the centre piece of attraction and not less than any piece of art. Cakes that looked like sculptures with real lifelike colours and dimensions and with a variety of cake combos like salted caramel, lemon pistachio, berries, geode, glossy marble finishes; cakes with activated charcoal and other additives that made the cake look black, green, blue, red, orange, purple…the options are endless. It was all about creating that perfect atmosphere and making the consumers experience the theme in totality. It was all about versatility and adaptation to all possible themes and scenarios.
CHE F VIVEK CHAUHAN
Chef Vivek Chauhan believes, “experience matters more than ever. The atmosphere, innovation, service with a smile and presentation make the experience memorable. For example, technology like 3D printed food. Foodies share stories online where they have eaten with the picture of desserts, tweets on social media, with a description. This not only gives an opportunity for people to know about the experience, but also lets them plan their visit.”
Different cakes and bakes mark the advent of different festivals, seasons and occasions in Europe, UK, US, Australia, Germany, Japan, and many other countries. Pumpkin based bakes for Halloween, Simnel Cake for
Easter, a light and fresh Pavlova for a warm Christmas in Australia, in contrast to rich Christmas fruitcake in the cold countries, Black Forest Cake from Germany, Baum Kuchen, French macarons and profiteroles are some names worth mentioning.
India also seems to have caught up with the cake trend going beyond birthdays, especially mithai based cakes being ordered for Raksha bandhan, Valentine’s Day, Diwali, Holi, New Year’s Eve, etc. Cakes are also ordered for gifting. There’s been an increase in the varieties of bakes and the reasons for which these are made, and it wouldn’t be long before bakes either complimented or replaced traditional sweets.
Thinking Ahead
Now that businesses are getting back to normal, what specific efforts are being undertaken to maximise business inflow? “We should put in some extra efforts to increase the business to find out the new sources of income. Get the dream team together, sit down with coffee and discuss about new ways to expand the sales market. New services or products, new marketing strategy, advertisement of products, encourage customers to buy more. Planning for the loyal customers, cut out unnecessary expenses, something that needs to be apriority,” feels Chef Ali.
Chef Vivek Chauhan says, “Promotions are launched where desserts and sweets with more varieties are delivered to the door with hygienic practices, use of innovative ideas, seasonal ingredients and clean finish, following dietary requirements, providing separate food by specifying glutenfree, sugar-free, eggless, etc.”
Chef Rishabh shares, “with the buffet being minimum, a la carte or buffet on the table has become a part of the new normal. We at The Leela Palace, New Delhi, started with ‘Brunch on Wheels’ – a concept where we have moving trolleys of cocktail bar, salads, desserts etc., that are wheeled around the restaurant, and reach the guests at their table itself.”
He adds, “food deliveries and takeaways too are here to stay especially with house parties becoming the choice to celebrate festivals, weekend gatherings and special intimate occasions. These trends are what we are focusing on along with dine-in at our award winning restaurants which are equipped with the highest levels of safety standards under ‘Suraksha by The Leela’ as the safety of our guests and associates is of paramount importance to us.”
“Price is a major determining factor, as the pandemic has shaken the entire world. Everyone has got affected by this situation, so financial limitations come in when it comes to the spending power of everyone. We must make things approachable and affordable to everyone so that consumers can spend freely without any hesitation. We must reduce the price. Lots of businesses have reduced their prices to earn revenue. Hygiene is another important factor. Everyone wants to visit a clean and hygienic place to dine in. So hygiene is the second most important factor to maximize the flow,” feels Chef Anand Panwar
Path To The Future
International brands with classic recipes, home-bakers with their own version of bakes, artisanal bakers, bakers who cater to all sorts of dietary requirements, and bespoke cakes and bakes, all seem to be vying for attention. The markets are getting even more competitive. How is the path to the future shaping up?
“Yes, due to more competition, there is complexity in consumer purchasing decisions and it will increase in the future too,” believes Chef Ali. “Most importantly please ensure that the quality of the product comes with an enhanced shelf life. To maintain our business according to market trend, we have to personalise the secret recipe and design of our own product. More and more communications with the guest will be more prevalent. Mobile communication is becoming the centre of marketing to know the customer feedback and preferences.”
“It is good to see the market improving and businesses picking up. I am certainly hopeful of a fruitful future for the industry at large. Ensuring safety will surely remain the core of businesses,” feels Chef Rishabh.
The finishing with fruit gels, fruit toppings, chocolate swirls, straws and fans, chocolate sculpture and figurines, real life-like cakes and creepy cakes by New York-based nurse, Katherine Dey, geometrical and multidimensional cakes by architect Dinara Kasko, cakes with precision and technique by Amaury Guichon, say it all. Spray painting with metallic colours which once would have made anyone classify these as inedible, now dominate the world of bakes. We have now left behind the organic bakes, and even the classic dense cake with buttercream.
Chef Vivek Chauhan opines,“continual experimentation for the introduction of distinctive flavours of fillings and toppings, coupled with the increasing demand for customized pastries and cakes is catering to a wide and diversified consumer base. Moreover, the increasing health consciousness among consumers has led to the incorporation of healthier ingredient alternatives, such as whole wheat flour instead of white flour. Along with this, the burgeoning demand for low sodium, glutenfree, multigrain and organic baked products is also propelling the market growth. Rustic or paint-like strokes of buttercream or no buttercream at all can create a cake that looks truly handmade and therefore more superior. Brightly coloured coatings and especially coloured dough is on the rise.”
Adds Chef AnandPanwar, “I am hoping for a bright future for the industry. Yes, the market is getting more and more competitive but clients nowadays are very well educated, and they know what they have to eat and where they have to visit. So the brands that will maintain consistency in the quality of the food and hygiene will not get affected much. It will not affect the business so much. Finally, everyone is praying to God for the situation to come back to the pre-pandemic stage. Prayers also have power. I believe we will come back better, stronger and brighter.”
Strategy For Hotel Bakeries
With artisanal bakers under the limelight, the bakery industry has been booming with many artisanal bakers setting up shops across the country. Sourdough breads, flourless cakes and brownies with single origin chocolate, drunk cakes with alcohol, multi layered cakes with silver and gold foil are not uncommon now. Given the pricing barrier, do the star hotels need any specific strategy to have their bakery business in continued demand?
“One clear trend has come up in the bakery industry which is ‘jo dikhta hai wahi bikta hai’. We must always do R&D for new bakery and patisserie products. Star hotels have their very selective and specific customers. On the other hand, in the open market, there are a lot customers to attract at a low price. Yes, to break the pricing barrier star hotels must have specific strategies to grow their bakery business to meet the continued demand. Star hotels should start their pastry shop branches across the metropolitan cities with their brand name to pick the business from large field of local consumer market,” feels Chef Ali.
Chef Vivek Chauhan iterates, “star hotels are more structured and have high standards and quality with the best hygiene practices being followed. They use good quality ingredients and work with standard SOPs which sets them apart from artisanal bakers. People are getting more aware of culinary education and the culinary world in general, therefore they can easily tell the difference. When we go to dine we look for a memorable experience which can be only fulfilled in a standard place.”
“Every business has its own clientele, ”says Chef Anand Panwar, “the five-star hotels have different clients and standalone have different ones. There is a very small percentage of overlap. Yes, the bakery mystery is booming, and loads of artisanal bakers have come up with new, unique, small and niche outlets. As both the segments have a different clientele, the business will not get affected much in any of the segments. When it comes to strategy, it’s very simple. Five-star hotels also need to look up the prices while designing a cafe menu and keep it competitive to match a good standalone outlet. Keep the prices competitive and the quality better. Five-star hotels do have an advantage of great ambience and surrounding.”
International Influence
Sugar craft, readymade marzipan and fondant, matcha, marble glaze, miso, fair trade honey and organic chocolate, ruby and gold chocolate, free-range eggs, funnel cakes, baklava, aqua faba, meringues, marshmallows, earl grey tea, lavender, all things exotic make up the present-day bakery world. Is there an influence of the international markets on the bakery products being offered here in India?
“Yes, we can say, there is an influence of the international markets on the bakery products being offered in India, because we are inspired by international bakeries like Europe and USA. But as one of the largest segments in the food processing sector in India, the bakery industry offers huge opportunities for growth, innovation, and job generation. Separated into three categories, bread, biscuits, and cakes and pastries, the bakery industry has reached a market value in the international market. As the second-largest producer of biscuits after the USA, India is a key player internationally, and with the entrepreneurial spirit of Indian companies and individuals, it is one of the most exciting regions for the bakery sector,” opined Chef Ali.
Chef Vivek Chauhan feels that “there is a good influence and today by offering products in India it is worth saying that we stand nearly equal to the international markets. Training has to be provided to teams with international exposure so they learn the right techniques. Ingredients have to be imported all year round to maintain consistency. More international equipment and tools are required.”
“Challenges always bring in opportunities,” adds Chef Rishabh.“We do have great products which are locally available and we use them in our dishes. But there are certainly a few products which are better produced internationally. But with newer technologies, we surely can expect a lot of new sourced products being produced locally.”
Affirming to the trend, Chef Anand Panwar adds, “Yes it is very true. We are very much influenced by the international market and their bakery products. The thing which makes us lag behind sometimes is the raw ingredient, and the technology to make that product similar to the French or international market. However, in India also some local ingredients have been giving better results in the international markets, but here we have to educate the guests to consume that product. On the other hand, if a person has travelled to the international market and came back to India and found the same product in the market they would happily consume that.”
Workforce Worries
Students studying in catering colleges aspire to get qualified and certified from reputed institutes abroad, like Le Cordon Bleu, which gives them an international perspective of working in a bakery, patisserie or chocolaterie, the rigour and the discipline needed, and a knowledge of the climatic conditions and the produce that is unique to each country, and its influence on the food there. What is the status of the quality of manpower and that of the ingredients available?
“When you are talking about the quality of manpower, you should be very careful in the selection process. Our manpower always should be technically sound, trained and educated. Please do not compromise with the quality of ingredients because it affects our long-term business planning,” says Chef Ali.
Chef Vivek Chauhan adds, “manpower is good, but at times it is required more for getting beautiful work. Bakery and patisserie require patience and lot more planning to give the wow factor. We do have ingredients available, but still require regular imports of ingredients to maintain good standards.”
“The quality of manpower is decreasing as compared to the last few years,” feels Chef Anand Panwar. “Young chefs and team members want to be celebrities as soon as possible without knowing the basics, and without hard work. Social media is ruling the world and on the same track new generation thinks that without going on the cooking range or on the table they can just work on the plating, and put the picture on the social media, and get famous. Which I think, is a deviation from core work. This is the biggest reason that nowadays it’s very tough to find good and skilled chefs or manpower.”
He adds, “The standard of the quality of ingredients is getting higher and higher, day by day, as people are getting educated due to travel and knowledge of the ingredients. So everyone knows which is a good ingredient and which is not. Everyone is now focusing on good and local ingredients in the recipe to save cost as well as to make it a fresher and healthier option. In terms of agriculture and its produce, lots of chefs are working very closely with the farmers so that they can design their menu which is seasonal and healthier. So I would say that the quality is now closer to the international standards.”
Chef Rishabh’s take on it is that “we have to be very specific now choosing the pearls, rather training them judiciously to overcome the situation. In terms of ingredients, it will be more experimental now with more options available to choose the finest.”
It is time for the bakery industry to gear up for the future. Be it ingredients, processes, techniques, manpower, or quality and standards, constant innovation seems to be the key. Learning, unlearning, relearning, and being aware of the happenings in the world seem to be the mantra.
One cannot but deny that the world of bakery is constantly evolving. More trends would come up, and healthy or not, there would always be reasons to support these trends. The one thing that cannot be denied is the industry’s willingness to walk that extra mile with its resilience and agility, which is the biggest winner.
Delicate matcha and white chocolate flavours complemented by a cranberry burst, the textures that work together really well. That’s essentially what an entremets dessert is! A little sweet treat between savoury courses. Complex, with a range of flavours and textures. Coming soon…. ‘Vegan Cranberry and Matcha White Chocolate Entremet Cake’!
