The pastry education sector in India is growing leaps and bounds. Two world-class pastry schools have been launched this year in Mumbai. Other cities also are brimming with educational initiatives. En-Ming Hsu, former World Pastry Champion, was in India recently on a teaching expedition. En-Ming, professor at the prestigious French Pastry School in Chicago, took classes in the recently opened School for European Pastry in Mumbai.
She won gold medal at the World Pastry Championship in Lyon, the ‘Rising Star’ award by the James Beard Foundation, and the ‘Pastry Chef of the Year’ title in America, among many accolades. In an interview with Manoj John, she talks about the trends in the West. Excerpts:
Tell us about your journey into the world of pastry.
I went to college in New York, andstudied arts. My interests were jewellery design and photography. The famous Culinary Institute of America was very close to my college. In those days, I was interested in cooking for fun. Gradually, I developed an interest in bakery and pastry. And I wanted to take up baking.
Meanwhile, I went into catering and worked for some years in that sector. Then I moved to Chicago and worked there for some time before moving to bakery full-time. I was initiated into participating in competitions while working in the bakery and pastry sector. I became part of the national team for the World Pastry Cup. It was not preplanned, and I just happened to be in the world of pastry.
You have come to India on a teaching mission. Please comment on the pastry education sector in India.
I love teaching. I did not open my own pastry shop like many people do. I focused rather on pastry education, and would like to continue in that area. The main purpose of my visit to India is teaching. There is lot of scope for the pastry education sector to grow. The students are very passionate about the world of pastry. They already know some of the basics. They have a clear idea about what they are going to do in life. The students, as everywhere, need to work hard in order to realise their dreams.
How different is the pastries of Europe and America?
I used to visit Europe, though I do not go there so often nowadays. I have been jury member in many events.The pastry industry in the US is different from that in Europe. They are, however, not as different as they used to be once. The world has become more and more integrated. Chefs travel more often than before and imbibe the ongoing styles from wherever they go. The social media also have brought people together. Texture is very important in European pastry. French and Italian pastries use a lot of nuts. Americans have their own style of pastries. They also have their own types of pastries. However, there are a lot of commonalities too.
In India, I can see a lot of European pastries. Chocolates and desserts are much like those in Europe. But the truly Indian desserts, as I understand them, are quite different. The ingredients of Indian desserts are also different. India has a lot of wonderful desserts such as Halwa and Gulab Jamun.
India is a very interesting country. In the last few years, the Indian market has really “exploded.” Quality chocolate, for instance, is now a reality in India. All world class brands are available in the country. I am in India currently for taking master classes. I didn’t find any difficulty in getting good quality ingredients here.
It is the same is the case with equipment. The ovens, ice-cream machines and other pieces of equipment are very advanced. The tools are all in line with European standards.
What is the trend in the West?
It is moreover the same type of things. Social media are today playing a vital role in shaping trends. With the popularity of social media, the visual aspect of pastry is given more importance. A lot of chefs are no focusing on the appearance of their desserts. How your pastry looks is today as important as how it tastes. Visual aspect has, in fact, always been important but now it has gained an edge. People are using a lot of colours and shades. Since photos and videos can be easily transmitted, people are watching how others are making their stuffs. The world is closely connected today. The pictures you put are instantly there all over the world.
Another trend is 3D printing which really can bring out wonderful works in pastry. Computer graphics is an important tool when it comes to pastry design. However, I have not tried it.
In Europe, many chefs are also publishing magazines. The magazines feature new products, styles and market trends. They also carry interviews of chefs and other professionals. Food magazines are a nice tool for getting updated about what is happening in the industry.
What are the trends in other Asian countries?
I have a lot of relative in Asian countries. I do visit Asian countries for teaching. I have taught in Thailand and Malaysia. I understand that there is a growing interest in pastry in China. The Chinese are developing a palate for Western pastry. In other areas also, the taste of the people are undergoing changes. Truffle and wines, for instance, are catching up in many Asian countries. I can also see a lot of training centres coming up in Asian countries.
