Chef Nowzer Iranpour has four decades of varied experience in the bakery and pastry industry behind him. He was witness to an era where everything was carried out manually, and is now part of a much evolved industry where digitalisation and mechanisation are key drivers. In an exclusive interaction with BakeryBiz, Iranpour shares his thoughts on subjects as diverse as technology and hospitality studies to the challenges of working with an airline catering company.
Excerpts:
Can you tell us about your chequered career of over 40 years?
I hail from Nasik, where I completed my schooling. There is a very famous bakery in Nasik called Meher Bakery, located close to my house. I used to visit this bakery after school hours. I used to be allured by the aroma of the buns and breads in those bakeries, which created an infatuation for me towards the baking profession. So here I am. I applied for scholarship and joined the Dadar Catering College. I started my career as a trainee cook with the Taj Group in 1971 after completing my course. In 1974 I was sent to Goa for the newly opened Fooda Mola’s bakery and pastry section. I was honoured to have received this opportunity at that time. I worked there for a year, and then I was shifted back to Mumbai. Then I was sent to Switzerland to Taj Air Catering in 1974-75. I worked there as a sous chef, managing the kitchen for five years. I had opportunities to work in different countries like Germany. Later, I was posted at hotels like Taj Palace and West Inn to promote pastry and bakery and also to train the juniors. In 1979, I was sent to Delhi for a chefs’ competition. I was the only chef to win three gold medals from India. By the way, my wife is also a good cook. She was working with me at Taj as an assistant manager.
It has been a good journey with Taj, with 40 years of experience with that group. I retired in October last year. Now I am with Starbucks as consultant. The restriction here is that we cannot change the recipes at Starbucks, as they are centrally planned.
Don’t you feel that innovation in menu is important?
Yes, it is important. We keep a certain menu for three months after which we receive a new menu from the Starbucks head office. After three months, there would changes in the dessert menu also. The items which are identified as the best by the guests are unchanged. It is very difficult to bring the guests but it is easy to lose them.
In comparison to innovation, are there any elements that stay unchanged over time?
There are many. Some old patterns are still continuing in the market like the mawa cakes provided by the Merwan’s at Grant Road, Mumbai. Another bakery that provides old fashioned but extremely sought-after stuff is Crown Bakery at Worli.
What are the changes in consumer behaviour pattern that you perceive today?
More and more people today celebrate birthdays with parties. There are a lot of parties and gettogether events. The preferences also change accordingly. I have observed that people today go for cheese cakes with decorations rather than those simple cakes before. People have become health conscious these days. They want to have low- calorie, gluten-free, and sugar-free products.
This trend could be seen even in chocolates that we get from abroad. People today love chocolates having no sugar that was meant to be earlier in India. The trend exists in frozen foods, frozen desserts, and yogurt cakes too. The trend abroad is also frozen items.
Earlier, there were few choices for the people. Today, they have choices and are ready to spend. Another trend pertains to conversion of Continental desserts into Indian desserts. I have served my desserts to many top dignitaries like Prince Charles, President Barack Obama and others. Unfortunately, I am not allowed to reveal the menus served to those dignitaries. Satisfying the top dignitaries is a challenging task.
Please comment on new technologies?
Technology makes things easier. Earlier, it everything was manually done. Today, everything is computerised. I miss those days when preparing bakery and pastry items was really time-consuming. Today, it takes just a minute to call up a supplier who will provide you with all ingredients at your doorstep. Another example is the chocolate mould. Today there are number of moulds unlike in the past. I prefer traditional way of preparing to modern ways as it teaches you a lot.
How important is the bakery and pastry segment in the syllabuses of hotel management institutes?
My advice is that the basics have to be very strong for anyone who wishes to take this as a profession in life. Hotel management institutes do give importance to bakery and pastry. Students are picked up by various hotels for three months’ training and may be placed permanently. Mostly, students do not opt for bakery and pastry together. It is either bakery or pastry. For me, it is very different experience as I am involved in both the segments. I am honoured by the Taj Group as they have trained me in both the segments.
What are the points that a chef has to consider in his career?
He has to consider the guests’ likes and dislikes. The recipe may be changed from time to tome but it should get along with the guests’ tastes. It may be a drastic change but it is important for us to consider the guests’ preferences. The determination to make good recipes and serve the guests with a passion for his profession is very important.
As a chef, what are the challenges involved in working with an airline catering company?
Working in an airline catering company is different from working at a hotel. There is a fixed menu in airlines but in hotels it keeps changing on a daily basis. Through experience, one can grow in any of the branches of the industry but we need to be masters wherever we are. The importance for this profession has been growing.
What are your dreams?
I had wished to start a mobile bread outlet. In Mumbai there are many locations suitable for this. I had suggested this idea long-time ago to businessmen. The concept is every popular abroad, but it has not yet taken off in India. It would be a good business line.
